Reviews

2020-2024 Ford Explorer Used Buyer's Guide: Trims, Reliability, and Common Issues

A practical look at the sixth-generation Ford Explorer, from trim levels and engine choices to the faults worth checking before you hand over money.

2020-2024 Ford Explorer Used Buyer's Guide: Trims, Reliability, and Common Issues

The sixth-generation Explorer landed for 2020 on a completely new, rear-drive-based platform, which changed how it drives, how much it can tow, and how it ages. It also had a rocky first year, followed by steady refinement. That spread matters when you shop used: a 2020 XLT and a 2023 XLT wear the same badge but aren't the same vehicle underneath. Here's how to sort them out.

The 2020-2024 Explorer at a glance

Every Explorer in this range uses the same bones: a longitudinally mounted engine, rear-wheel drive as standard, optional all-wheel drive, and a 10-speed automatic transmission across the board. Three powertrains appeared during these five model years:

  • 2.3-liter EcoBoost four-cylinder — roughly 300 hp, fitted to most XLT, Limited, ST-Line and Timberline models. The sensible default for most buyers.
  • 3.0-liter twin-turbo EcoBoost V6 — about 365 hp in the Platinum and closer to 400 hp in the ST.
  • 3.3-liter V6 hybrid — offered in the Limited Hybrid during the earlier part of this generation.

The 2020 launch was bumpy. Early build quality, software glitches and camera problems generated a long list of recalls and dealer updates. Ford tightened things up through 2021 and 2022, and 2021 also added the King Ranch, Timberline and ST-Line trims. A cheap 2020 can be a smart buy, but only with complete service records and a proper inspection.

Trim levels, decoded

Ford sold a lot of different Explorers, and the badges don't always tell you what you're getting. The short version:

  • Base — mostly fleet and rental cars. Basic cloth, small wheels, minimal content. Skip unless the price is exceptional.
  • XLT — the volume seller. Cloth or Ford's synthetic ActiveX upholstery, 18-inch wheels, decent standard safety gear. The best value in the lineup.
  • ST-Line — the important one to understand. It looks like an ST, with the blacked-out grille and sporty trim, but it has the 2.3-liter four, not the twin-turbo V6. Plenty of sellers lean on the ST name here.
  • Limited — leather, more tech, 20-inch wheels, better audio. Comfortable without being flashy.
  • Timberline — a slightly lifted, off-road-flavored version with all-terrain tires and standard all-wheel drive. Four-cylinder only.
  • ST — the performance model. 3.0-liter V6, firmer suspension, available 21-inch wheels. Genuinely quick, and genuinely thirstier.
  • Platinum and King Ranch — the luxury end, most with the 3.0-liter V6 and a long options list.
  • Limited Hybrid — the fuel-economy play, sold during the early years of the generation.

Engine and drivetrain: what to pick

For most buyers, the 2.3-liter EcoBoost is the right answer. It moves the Explorer well, returns noticeably better fuel economy than the V6s, and costs less to maintain — two fewer cylinders, simpler plumbing, cheaper spark plug jobs. If you're towing regularly, most versions handle roughly 5,000 pounds with the factory tow package, so check the specific truck's rating before you assume.

The 3.0-liter V6 in the ST is a different animal: strong, smooth and expensive to run. Fuel, tires and brakes all cost more. Buy it because you want it, not because you think you need it.

On drivetrains, all-wheel drive adds weight, a transfer case and a rear differential — all of which eventually need fluid service. If you live somewhere with serious winters, it's worth it. If you don't, rear-wheel drive saves fuel and future repair bills.

Common problems to know about

No used vehicle is trouble-free, and this generation has a handful of known weak spots. None of them should stop you buying, provided you check for them first.

  • 10-speed automatic behavior. The most common complaint. Look for delayed engagement when shifting from park to drive, harsh low-speed shifts, or shuddering at steady throttle. Some cases were fixed with a software update or valve body work; others weren't.
  • Infotainment and camera faults. Blank or flickering screens, frozen SYNC systems and failing rear cameras show up repeatedly in early years. Confirm every screen, camera view and USB port works.
  • Water leaks. Clogged sunroof drains and poorly sealed body seams can soak carpets and headliners. Check for dampness, musty smells and water stains, especially in the cargo area and footwells.
  • Electrical gremlins. Battery drain, liftgate modules and assorted sensor warnings. A scan tool check is worth the small fee.
  • Direct-injection maintenance. Carbon buildup, oil consumption and tired turbos on high-mileage examples. Regular oil changes with the correct specification matter a lot here.
  • Wear items. Rotors prone to warping, and expensive tires on 20- and 21-inch wheels. Look at tread depth across all four tires, since the AWD system prefers matched sizes.

Maintenance and running costs

Budget more than you would for a compact crossover. Tires, brakes and fluid services on a 4,500-pound SUV simply cost more, and 20-inch rubber is a real expense. Plan on regular oil changes, brake fluid and coolant service on schedule, a transmission fluid service somewhere in the middle of the vehicle's life, and transfer case and differential fluid changes on all-wheel-drive models.

The hybrid's battery pack has generally proven durable, but it's a component you can't inspect casually. If you're considering one at high mileage, have a shop that knows hybrids check its condition. For any significant repair estimate, get a second opinion before committing.

What to inspect before you buy

  1. Pull the VIN and check for open recalls with Ford or the NHTSA database. Open safety recalls are free to fix, so there's no reason to inherit one.
  2. Ask for service records, not just a Carfax. Oil change intervals tell you more about how the engine was treated than anything else.
  3. Start it cold. Let it sit overnight if you can. Listen for rattles, watch for smoke, and note how it idles.
  4. Drive it slowly first. Parking-lot speeds expose the transmission complaints. Then take it on the highway and feel for vibration, pulling and brake shudder.
  5. Test everything electrical — every window, seat control, camera, USB port, sunroof and the third-row power fold.
  6. Look for water. Lift the floor mats, check the headliner edges and sniff the cargo area.
  7. Get an independent pre-purchase inspection. An hour of a mechanic's time is the cheapest insurance you'll buy. Make sure they scan the computers and put it on a lift.
  8. Verify the title and payoff before any money changes hands, and confirm the seller's ID matches the paperwork.

Which one should you buy

A 2021 or 2022 XLT with the 2.3-liter and rear-wheel drive, under 60,000 miles, with a clean history and a fresh inspection, is the sweet spot in this generation — most of the early problems sorted, without paying new-car money. Step up to a 2023 if you want the later software and refinements. Only chase an ST or Platinum if the extra power and equipment genuinely matter to you, and price the tires and fuel into that decision honestly. Do the checks, walk away from anything with vague records, and this is a comfortable, capable family SUV that will serve you well.

Photo: hasnain_official / Pixabay